Beijing is often regarded as a city of dynastic grandeur of the past, one which is separate from its modern transformations. This view is increasingly untenable given the growing importance of modern and recent developments. A coherent picture of the form and the political history of the Chinese capital is needed. This talk presents a tour of twelve steps for a study of the city that covers formal, symbolic and sociopolitical issues, with a historical trajectory moving from the past through Maoist times to the present.